On to Machrihanish
Friday 8/18/2017 – Today was great! I got to Machrihanish around 8:20 and, after talking briefly with another player, hit some putts on the practice green. The pro shop didn’t open until 8:30 and a few more golfers started walking up to the first tee. It really was beautiful. The waves were breaking slowly towards the shore and a few people were walking along the beach. When the pro shop opened, the first few groups checked in and teed off. I introduced myself to the starter and he said that I could try to join another group if I was ready to play. I went outside and introduced myself to Yates and Larry. They were staying across the street and playing Machrihanish for the first time. They were immediately welcoming and happy to have me join them.
Yates and Larry took me under their wing and loved hearing about my adventures so far in Scotland. This was their 5th golf trip to Scotland together and their first time on the Kintyre Peninsula. I can’t picture them clearly in my mind, but I remember feeling comfortable with them right away. I sliced my first drive, starting it out left over the beach, on what Jack Nicklaus called the best opening tee shot in the world. I found my ball in the short grass on the right side and had a look into the green. Then I chunked an iron 20 yards and happily walked off the first green with a bogey 5.
I didn’t feel as sure of myself with my swing as I did yesterday at Shiskine but still really enjoyed the round. I convinced myself to forget about the score and just enjoy being out there. It was great talking with Larry and Yates, an older father/son duo that reminded me in some ways of Dad and me.
We hacked our way around the course, each exploring the land for the first time and losing our fair share of golf balls. Machrihanish felt demanding and punishing in a way that Shiskine did not. Old Tom Morris won this round.
When we finished the round, they invited me to have a drink and lunch with them. We first went to the Machrihanish clubhouse for a pint of Belhaven’s Best then went on to a cool little pub right next to their hotel. I had a BLT and sweet potato fries along with a Guinness. When the waitress brought the drinks, though, she handed one to Yates and then the other fell off the platter in her hands and right into my lap. I laughed it off and told the waitress not to worry. I can imagine how bad she must have felt and just kept reassuring her that it was no problem. In the end I got a clean pair of pants out of it!
Perspective. I remember Yates and Larry were impressed by my reaction to this development. And I liked being impressive (I still do).
I changed into a pair of Yates’ pants and, while Larry took a nap, we went out on the 9-hole course adjacent to the full course. It was a fun little loop with a few par 4s and one par 5. I hit some nice shots and we even made our own hole at one point. I was telling Yates how I used to do that with Dad at Winged Foot. When we finished, I decided to play it again and Yates went to shower and said I could find him in the pub. I flew through the 9 holes again in under an hour and then checked in with the hotel about my pants. The receptionist said he would call over to the pub when they were ready so I went and had another drink (this time I paid for Yates and Larry). We talked some more and then I said goodbye and went to wait for the hotel shuttle to take me back to Campbeltown.
I searched in my phone and found a text from Yates: “Hey John, thanks for the drinks! That was mighty sneaky of ya!” I had managed to pay without them noticing before I left. Yates mentioned the festival that was happening near my hotel and followed up about connecting me with a friend who has a PhD in religious studies. Then he sent me another nice note from Cruden Bay, wishing me well on the rest of my journey.
I’m feeling tired but really happy that I was able to meet Yates and Larry and enjoy a great day with them. It really is so easy just to reach out to people and be the kind, joyful person I know I can be (or am).
That night, I walked around outside for a bit in Campbeltown. I remember feeling out of place and alone. It’s like I forget how easy it can be to talk with random strangers when I just make the effort and initiate. I love how golf can be the gentle nudge I often need to get out of my head and connect with other people.
Dunaverty
Saturday 8/19 – I had a good day today, playing at Dunaverty in Southend. The wind was really strong, similar to my first day at Shiskine. I took the bus there at noon and knew I would have to wait until 6pm for the bus back. I arrived and talked with the starter, paid 30 pounds and he told me I could go right out if I was ready. I started right before another twosome went off and finished my round when they were still on the 13th or 14th hole. I didn’t feel like I was moving that fast, just walking to my ball, getting set and hitting the shot.
Looking back, I’m not sure I fully appreciated how special Dunaverty is. I’ve since read more about it and I can’t wait to return one day, especially reading Jim Hartsell’s story in When Revelation Comes and learning how much that linksland means to him. What stood out for me were the cows roaming the fairways, the electric fences protecting the greens, and some of the blind shots that had me walking off the green wanting to play the hole again. The course felt like it was meant to be right where it was. It felt rugged and welcoming and genuine, as if it wasn’t trying to be anything other than what it was. I think that’s special.
When I finished it wasn’t even 3pm yet so I went inside for some lunch. I had a chicken cream soup that was quite good and sat down next to the only other man in the clubhouse. He was older and had played earlier. I almost tried to avoid him and just be by myself but I’m glad I started talking with him. He was very nice and when I told him that I had to wait until 6 for the bus he offered to drive me back to Campbeltown. I was really grateful for that and, as we began to leave, I realized I didn’t have any cash to pay for my meal. I had paid for the round with my card and forgot that I used up the 100 pounds I brought with me. He gave the starter the 4 pounds for my meal and we set off.
I conveniently forget a lot of things. And again, my first instinct is to avoid social interaction, as if it will ask something of me that I’m not ready or willing to give. I’m continuing to learn that I am ready, and I am willing, especially in those moments when I feel the most closed off and resistant.
As we were pulling out of the driveway I commented on how beautiful everything was here. He offered to show me around Southend a bit so we drove down the peninsula and I got to see the different beaches and an old stone building that had been used over the years for a lot of different things (most recently, I think, for a summer school). We talked the whole way back and then he dropped me at my hotel. When I got out I told him I would run inside and get him 4 pounds but he told me it was his treat. I thanked him again and let him know how much I appreciated him helping me out like this. We said goodbye and I went back to my room for a quick nap.
I wish I could remember this man’s name. I’m not sure that I ever got his contact information. I also wish I had more pictures to look back on, on this day and throughout the trip. But I can appreciate how the lack of pictures and content shows how that wasn’t what this trip was about for me. I was there to experience golf in Scotland— to be present to whatever came up and whomever I might meet. I feel some nostalgia for a time when I wasn’t so consumed by my phone and other technology, however true that may have been.
Back to Machrihanish
Sunday 8/20 – For breakfast I had two poached eggs with sausage and then asked the receptionist if she could call a taxi to come pick me up. I got my clubs and waited outside for my ride. The taxi driver was quite nice and drove me over to Machrihanish. When we were close I remembered that I had no money other than 9 pounds of change that I had accumulated since I got here. He couldn’t accept a card so I went into the Ugadale hotel across the street where there is an atm. They wouldn’t accept my card though so I had to go apologize and say I only had the 9 pounds. He seemed a little annoyed but took the money and then even gave me 10 pounds in case I needed it after. I had his card to call when I needed to get picked up and I promised him that I would pay him back (he knew I was staying at the Argyll Arms Hotel).
Again, I conveniently forget and then benefit from the good will and trust of a complete stranger. I’m also a little confused by this transaction— he took my 9 pounds of change and gave me 10 pounds back?
I went into the pro shop and told the starter I was hoping to play but didn’t have a tee time. He said no problem and I was able to pay the 60 pound fee with my credit card. The course seemed pretty open so I went right out and prepared to tee off. I remember feeling kind of anxious or stressed about what happened with the taxi and I wasn’t sure if I could take out money. But I hit my best drive of the trip so far, right over the beach and onto the left center of the fairway.
I was approaching my second shot on the second hole when a twosome ahead of me waved me through on the green. The two players told me it was their first time playing here and were going to be really slow so I should just go ahead. I had been hoping to play with others but was happy to keep moving. When I got up to the par-3 4th I realized that the course was really backed up. There were probably 6 foursomes on the 5th to the 9th holes. I tried to hit a soft 9 iron down wind on the par 3 but it ended up short. I saw exactly where it went in the rough right before the green. When I walked to the spot though it was nowhere to be found.
I looked for about 5 minutes while I saw the twosome ahead of me just standing on the tee box… I finally decided to just drop, chipped on and two putted. I walked towards the twosome and they didn’t really look at me or seem to want to acknowledge me. I think they were worried I was trying to jump in front of them or something. I waved to the woman on the red tees and walked towards her husband. He stared straight ahead even though I knew he knew I was there. I said hello and he slowly looked at me with a kind of blank stare. I took it in stride, smiled and asked if I could join them. I could see how he slowly warmed up to me as I just stayed positive and we talked about how it was all backed up right now on the course. The fairway finally cleared and we all teed off. When we were walking up the fairway we started talking more and I could see they were starting to enjoy talking with me and having someone else to play with. They pretty much exclusively played together and kept a mutual score based on 5s, taking the best ball and trying to stay even 5s like I do. By the time we got to the green I had them laughing and smiling.
I love thinking back to this anxious energy I carried with me on the course, and how I was forced to break through it and connect with other people.
We played a somewhat slow round, waiting on each tee box but I still had a good time. I did, however, have this lingering anxious feeling about what happened with the taxi. By the end of the round the husband told me they’d love to take me for a drink after the round and would be happy to drive me back to Campbeltown. I was kind of hoping to play the 9 hole Pans course again but I wasn’t going to turn down a free ride! We went into the clubhouse and they got me a Guinness and great lentil soup. We talked and ate and then they dropped me back at the hotel. Once again I’m really appreciating how people seem to just want to help me out and do all they can to make sure I enjoy my time here. Part of it, I think, is how I am, greeting them with a big smile and just talking with a positivity and openness that I guess can be rare. There have been a few times where I’ve been talking with someone and someone else nearby hears. I’ve noticed some staring with an almost puzzled look for a second and then asking me where in America I’m from and what I’m doing over here.
Whether or not I paid the nice taxi driver back is suspiciously absent from my notes. I don’t remember him knocking on my hotel room door that night, but I do have a vague memory of meeting him outside and paying him back. Maybe that’s just what I want to believe. Regardless, look at me connecting with strangers! My favorite strangers seem to be the ones who don’t seem to like me at first, as long as I eventually win them over. If not, they’re the problem, right?
Sometimes I find myself thinking that there is nothing really that sets me apart from others my age and most people are more hardworking and intelligent than I am. But when I really engage with other people I see how I really do bring something different to the table. I never force it or consciously try to be a certain way but recognize more and more the positivity and happiness I can bring to people around me.
I have so much to learn, and so much to share, and so much left to do in this life. I suppose that all I can really do is live one day at a time and always try to ensure that, wherever I am and whoever I’m with, I continuously try to be the person I know I can be, someone I can be proud of.
Honestly, I wish I could go back to this time in my life and just give myself a big hug. “Put down the weight of your aloneness and ease into the conversation…”
That’s all from week 1 in Scotland, August 2017. Week 2 brings me to St Andrews, the home of golf, and an altogether different experience from what I found on the Isle of Arran and the Kintyre Peninsula.
Reclaiming Our Soul 